| This
enormous complex, which was a temple city, is one
of the most intriguing in the Khmer empire, both
for it’s scale and it’s remote location.
Never excavated, Banteay Chhmar fits the picture
of a lost Khmer city with its ruined face-towers,
carvings, forest surroundings and bird life flying
through the temple. It has a romantic and discovery
feel to it.
Banteay
Chhmar dates from the late 12th to the early 13th
century and it means Narrow Fortress. It is thought
to have been built by Jayarvarman II. It was later
rebuilt by Jayarvarman VII as a funerary temple
for his sons and four generals who had been killed
in a battle repelling a Cham invasion in 1177.
Like
Preah Khan, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, Banteay
Chhmar originally enclosed a city with the temple
at the heart. No traces of the city that surrounded
the temple remain. The temple area covers 2km
by 2 and a half km. It contains the main temple
complex and a number of other religious structures
and a baray to its east. A mote filled with water
and a huge wall inside of that encloses the center
of the temple. This mote is still used to present
day by locals for fishing and daily chores. A
bustling small market and village bounds the east
and south east and perhaps there has been continuous
habitation there since the founding of the temple.
Inside
the mote, a stone rest house and chapel can be
seen. The highlight of Banteay Chhmar is the bas-reliefs,
which are comparable with the Bayon. They depict
battle against the Chams, religious scenes and
a host of daily activities. In parts, the outer
wall has collapsed. On the west side a spectacular
multi-armed Lekesvara can be seen. The temples
central complex is a jumble of towers, galleries,
vegetation and fallen stones. Beautiful carvings
can be seen throughout.
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